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Day 3. Cut the fabric:: Sew Along # 3

My dress and cut

Once we have prepared and set the standard measures of our sin, we have finally reached the desired time to take the scissors.

Tips for Beginners:

• The pattern is arranged on the wrong side. The pattern of the body and yoke are straight, ie with the arrow parallel to the selvages. The pattern for the braces is placed on the bias.

• If your fabric has patterns with a direction, check that you are well targeted and not come out upside down (not I have missed is that never ...)

• If the fabric is striped or large pictures, the ideal is that the bodice is cut symmetrically, ie the center of the pattern coincides with the center the subject. We will have to move the fold of the fabric to align the subject with the center of the pattern. It is even possible that we do need more fabric.

STEP 1. Place the pattern on the fabric
This is the cutting plane pattern, which indicates the best way to arrange the pieces to get more fabric. It is designed for a wide canvas 44 "(115cms), where the width is not sufficient to cut the bodice in parallel. If your wide web is normal, this is the way to have part 1 of the pattern, the body of the dress.

Cutting Plane for the Yoke and the straps up, and dress down. Normal fabric width.

If your fabric is twice as wide as in my case, this would be the cutting layout:

wide

Cutting Plane Part 1 in dual fabrics

After cleaning the larger table that you have at home, we put our precious fabric right side up. Smooth it well, ironing if necessary. For a normal width of fabric is folded in the direction of the thread, right sides together, so that the lateral edges are aligned (see Oliver and cutting plane S). We return to smooth the fabric by hand before placing the pattern.

For double width fabrics first fold the fabric right sides together and align the selvages. What we do is mark the center of the fabric. With the iron gently fold mark. We open the fabric. We took one of the selvages and the right sides aligned with the central fold mark. Do the same with the other selvage fabric and smoothed it by hand. Check that the selvages are well parallel. (See my picture cutting plane above) are

Once the two pieces on the fabric pattern to grip the fabric to keep it from moving. I do it with pins to nail parallel to the contour of the pattern.

POSITIONING STRIPS TO BIES
The strapless dress is cut on the bias, as seen in the cutting plane. When a pattern is cut on the bias means that it must be cut diagonally at an angle of 45 degrees to the selvedge. This gives the piece a different drop, and more importantly, flexibility. For this reason the straps of the dress is cut on the bias, so that it conformed to the round shape of the armhole. To find the bias of fabric is made thus:
On the back of the canvas to draw a line perpendicular to the selvage selvedge and align with this line. The fold is the direction the bias.

STEP 2. MARK THE FABRIC
verified that everything is correct (for the nineteenth time if necessary), including what we have all the parts and they're all the same size. I remind you that you have to cut 2-piece dress, 2 pieces for 2-piece bodice and straps. There are several ways to transfer the outline of the pattern to the fabric.

• with soap or special pen for fabrics: simply draw directly on the fabric.

• with tracing paper and wheel gear: Ana has a tutorial which explains very well.

• With basting. Method deeply hate slow and I leave it for when I do something complicated. However, it is the most accurate.

I have done with a sharp chalk. First draw one of the patterns on the fabric. Remove the paper pattern and light the fabric with pins to keep it from moving. Place the pattern on the other side to mark the other room.

Eye cutting the straps is the bias, and the paper pattern piece must lengthen as shown in the cutting plane. Do not dismissal.

schema of the part in a double width fabric

STEP 3. CUT Cut
it is essential to not ruin the fabric. For beginners this step can cause tremors and sweats, but if you've followed the steps correctly, and you have made sure that all is well, encouragement and by the scissors!
must be cut on a large flat surface (kitchen table) with long, sharp scissors. Cut slowly, trying not to lift the table cloth
Before taking the test the following snip:
- no wrinkles on the web.
- that everything is securely fastened with pins.
- that the fabric is highly targeted, dolls upside down, straight lines, etc ...
- It has 2-piece dress and 2-piece yoke.
- That all laspiezas are drawing, because "neither ever happened to me" I cut and then I have no material for the rest of the pieces.
- that the straps were drawn twice during the pattern piece.

And with that and a biscuit ... tomorrow we start to sew sewing

Greetings Maria